I thought the named the Yosemite system after Yosemite Sam, perhaps the best know pistol-packing, rock-climbing bad-ass of them all. You all remember his famous line "I'm-a gunna go 5.14 on is buttocks!"
Anyway, I agree that the Red's characteristics are just different, but not easier, than other places. i once saw a guy from Colorado spend all day on Aquaduck Pocket, even though he said he can climb hard 11 or 12s in CO. I believed him. I tried a 5.11c at the Monostary in CO and it kicked my as, even though I can get up 11c at the Red.
Ratings are for gumbies anyway
JR I am not sure of anything, but due to the traffic and the people who have climbed at Rifle-it has the most reputable clientele. Experience and constant review equals concensus. It is fairly current info also, there have been four guide books since 1992.
Same theme, different angle; last night I was reminded of the RED's climbing clientele (guide book) and the ever present Dave Hume. He has put up a lot of stuff and I trust his grades. He went out west did Lung Fish, 7 PM, and then Just Do It in less trys then Sharma or Tommy (4 I think?). He thought it was 14b vs 14c. So he is downrating the french. I trust that his grades wont be over rated.
Personally, I think grades are not important, but they help us create a challage for ourselves. So they help us push ourselves. That is fun from my perspective.
Same theme, different angle; last night I was reminded of the RED's climbing clientele (guide book) and the ever present Dave Hume. He has put up a lot of stuff and I trust his grades. He went out west did Lung Fish, 7 PM, and then Just Do It in less trys then Sharma or Tommy (4 I think?). He thought it was 14b vs 14c. So he is downrating the french. I trust that his grades wont be over rated.
Personally, I think grades are not important, but they help us create a challage for ourselves. So they help us push ourselves. That is fun from my perspective.
If I take a sample of two or ten or 100. The results would be sceptical. If everybody and their sister participated in the survey from all over the country and world, we might get a sample of some validity. Rifle was the hot spot in the 90's, everybody wants to taste what is new and hot. The people there (during the past ten years) put the sport were it is today.
We make the grades and the grades get shaped by consensus. Splitting hairs about grades is pointless, because it is always subjective.
The places most attuned to grades ...or cutting edge change with time and the sport.
Yosemite......50's, 60's, 70's ? put the scale up for sell.
Sport climbing evolves........80's Smith Rocks is the best place to KNOW what 5.14 is and all the other grades.
90's ........American Fork .........then Rifle........now ? probably still Rifle? Maybe Rifle and the Red? (my opinion)
If I want to know what V7 is then Hueco would be the first choice.......or now maybe Bishop?
Bottom line .......grades in the RED are fine!
We make the grades and the grades get shaped by consensus. Splitting hairs about grades is pointless, because it is always subjective.
The places most attuned to grades ...or cutting edge change with time and the sport.
Yosemite......50's, 60's, 70's ? put the scale up for sell.
Sport climbing evolves........80's Smith Rocks is the best place to KNOW what 5.14 is and all the other grades.
90's ........American Fork .........then Rifle........now ? probably still Rifle? Maybe Rifle and the Red? (my opinion)
If I want to know what V7 is then Hueco would be the first choice.......or now maybe Bishop?
Bottom line .......grades in the RED are fine!
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Joe Finney
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 3:03 am
