The road to RRG 5.12 sport...

[Wes]

So, you want to climb 5.12 sport in the red? There have been books and articles and all kinds of things put out to help get you there. But, it really isn’t that complicated at all. So, I am going to give you all some basic guidelines, goals, and exercises that can help get you to 5.12, within a year. That assumes you can already climb pretty solid 5.10, if not, then they will help, but you need more time on the rock to do 5.12, or you will need to work really hard. This is not all inclusive nor do I think it will work for everyone. But, it will help, if you put the effort into it.

First is physical training. You don’t need to be super fit to climb 5.12, just need to be kinda fit, with a few areas of above ave. strength/fitness.

Cardio is very important, esp. in the red. But, you don’t need to be able to run 7-minute miles or 4 hour marathons. You just need to work up to where you can run at a good pace for 45-60 minutes. If you use a Heart Rate Monitor, then you are looking for 40+ minutes of around 90% mHR. You don’t have to run that hard every run, but at least once a week or so is good. Once you get to that point, a little sprint training is good, as is a little bit longer distance.

General body strength is also important, but you do not need to be able to do 25 pull ups in a row or one arm pull-ups, or front levers at all. What you do need to be able to do is 7-10 pull ups, 25 or so pushups, and some core training. Depending on how strong you are now, you might not be able to do many pull-ups (I could barely do 5 when I sent my first 5.12). The way to build up is to use a pull up assist machine, or those power bands to help take weight off your arms. Use the least amount of help you can to do sets up around 4-5. Then, rather then increase the reps, decrease the aid, until you are able to do 4-5 without assistance, then work on adding more reps. Do two sets of palms facing away, and one of palms facing in (open handed, if you can). You should also work the same strategy for dips, until you can do 10-12 without assistance. Pushups are also very good, and you should try to do a few variations once you are able to do sets of 25. I really think doing shoulder stabilization pushups on a medicine ball are really good.
Core strength is also very important, so abs and lower back exercises are a must. There are plenty of ab workouts out there, so pick one, and use it for a bit, then switch it around. Personally, I like ¾ sit-ups, as that seems to really work the same muscle group as steep climbing does. And the last thing you need to do is dumbbell wrist curls. Open grip palms down, plams up, and palms down, but twisting are all very good. And, a set of the good squeeze grip things are good, but make sure that they are at 100 lbs or more of resistance.

Climbing ideas. Bouldering, on real rock if you can, on plastic for the days you can’t, will help you tons. Esp. if you have good people setting problems. You need power first, then work on endurance after that. Technique training is also very key, so climb with really good climbers and watch them, get a few private lesions from a really good guide, or read some of the very well written material on technique. It is also good to climb a wide range of route styles, including moderate trad, The more tricks you learn (hand jams, stemming, etc) the better. Also, learn how to rest and recover on route. Knee bars, wrist and arm wraps, etc. are all very important skilz. Being able to recover on the easier sections of a route is something that will pay off, so really spend time working on resting.

Mental. You need to be comfortable while leading. Arno’s book/course is very good, as is just getting out and falling on a safe route with a good belayer. If you are worried about falling then you are wasting energy, so make getting a good lead head a big time priority.

How much of each should you do? 3-4 days a week of climbing, with 2-3 days of cardio and 2 days of the other exercises is plenty. I like to boulder then do the other stuff afterward, with some days of just cardio. Just make sure your climbing time is quality, and that you are always “practice” climbing. It is much better to take a couple hangs on a route to try to learn sometime then to claw, scratch, and flail your way up a route. If you can send mid-5.10s, then you should start leading easy 5.11s. Might have to hang or fall, but it will teach you more then doing a bunch of easy 5.10s. Embrace failure, and you will succeed.

If you have any questions, post them or PM me. Or if you think I am wrong on some or all of these, then say that as well. Discussion is good.

[Stewy911]

i like your ideas wes. i am a real believer in pull ups and push ups need to work more on the ab areas and lower back but just doing push ups and pull ups this summer has helped me send me first 5.12 along with bouldring in the gym.

[frzsnow]

Do you have any good ideas for back strengthening exercises? I've tried the "superman" thing lying on your stomach on the floor and raising your arms/chest and legs and I've done reverse sit ups lying on my stomach on a swiss ball and raising my torso. Any other ideas to mix things up a bit?

[Christy]

Wes, will you be my trainer after this baby is born? Right now I'm working on my strength. I keep thinking of how strong I'll be after I'm used to pulling extra weight up the rock & then losing it! That's what I'm hoping for anyway! But seriously, your tips are really motivating.

[512OW]

Haha...imagine the backlash if I had posted this....

[512OW]

Do you have any good ideas for back strengthening exercises? I've tried the "superman" thing lying on your stomach on the floor and raising your arms/chest and legs and I've done reverse sit ups lying on my stomach on a swiss ball and raising my torso. Any other ideas to mix things up a bit?

Your lower back or your upper back?? You sound as if you're targeting your lower back...but your upper back are the "pulling" muscles. Pull ups, rows, and specifically (for me, anyhow), bent over dumbell rows, are great for upper back. If you have the facility, pull downs are a big strengthener for me ...

The lower back is touchy. Easy to injure. I wouldn't do anything major without supervision...what you're doing is good....

[Wes]

Frzsnow. Lower back is tricky, and the old standard exercises (good mornings, etc) can be kinda tricky to do right, and as 512 says, it is easy to injure yourself. However, I have had really good luck with using the power bands (really big rubber bands with diffetent resistances). Just put your feet about shoulder width, put the band under both feet and behind your neck, bend over then stand stright. Kinda like the superman thing you are doing now, but you can add more resistance.

Christy, would be glad to help you out, no doubt. You are going to be super strong from all that "training weight".


And, 512OW, backlash? Why would there be backlash unless it was people saying you should at least be able to climb 5.12 sport in the red before posting a road map to get there.

[heavyc]

well done, any 5.13 climbers want to give similar advice on what additional training methods they used to get there? BTW I think out of all the advice Wes gave the most important and specific to the Red was learining how to milk rests, I think these skilz are a lot more important than doing cardiovascular exercises.

[pigsteak]

something I found out over the years, is no matter what you current limit of leading, it always feels very hard. so, no matter whether 5.8 or 5.13 is your max, the moves will feel like your limit....that being said, realize that "your limit" will never feel like a cakewalk when you are first approaching it. moves will feel awkward, holds will feel small, holding your breath will be a problem,feet will be non-existent, and the runout always too long to the next clip.

so my advise would be..when pushing your limit, make sure to smile, laugh, step back and laugh, and thoroughly enjoy the process.

[TradMike]

Do you have any good ideas for back strengthening exercises?

Dumbell rows will rock your upper/mid back depending on back angle to ground. Deadlifts will rock you lower back just start out with super light weight until you get the form down. Keep the bar close to your legs just missing the knee caps on the up swing and lift with the legs and use a belt.

Thanks for the info Wes. I want to do a few 12s this year. The 11s are not a problem but the 12s just seem to be a big jump for some reason. Every time I get close, I end up having to travel for work or something and go right back to where I was.