The Legend - first set of anchors

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
kneebar
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Post by kneebar »

Posting on this board is a black hole..............................I don't know what to say now.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

I'm not second guessing the anchors. They make it easy to work the hard moves and they're easy to pass up if you feel like it. I like them being there.

My post was questioning peoples' opinions on whether, in the future, an ascent to the first set of anchors on The Legend will become the accepted method of sending the line. Personally I don't think so. I think the original line will stand.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Power2U
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Post by Power2U »

First set of anchors 13a
Second set 13b

There problem solved :D
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
Astroman
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Post by Astroman »

pigsteak wrote:so astroman..if we make a rope long enough.....should the Nose be only 2-3 pitches? that seems logical to pigsteak.
Piggy, Are you trying to pick a fight???
boulderguy133
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Post by boulderguy133 »

as for first or second set, its def. your loss if you dont go all the way. it's far more rewarding to finish after pulling that roof.

also, the seeping problem definitely sucks, but the route is still climbable without A0. i mean, three other guys and i all sent it this summer with the hold wet as hell. you just jug up, dry it, lower, then climb....still a bit of A0, but you still get to do the rad start.

and dave is not too new to this board, hes been coming to the gorge for a while
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Artsay
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Post by Artsay »

Dry it? You mean with a blow torch? We heard that's what some guy did and that the rock got hot as hell! :lol: But supposedely the rock stayed dry for about five minutes....long enough to send it so I guess it was worth it.

I also saw some holds on Mercy/Table seeping this past weekend and that was weird too. Hopefully this is just a weird state due to the super dry weather and once the water table gets normal again the water will flow like it used to...away from the rock. Sure is strange for rock to be so wet during such a long drought, though. :?
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
Spragwa
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Post by Spragwa »

SCIN wrote:I'm not second guessing the anchors. They make it easy to work the hard moves and they're easy to pass up if you feel like it. I like them being there.

My post was questioning peoples' opinions on whether, in the future, an ascent to the first set of anchors on The Legend will become the accepted method of sending the line. Personally I don't think so. I think the original line will stand.
Hell yeah Ray! I totally agree with you.

I should have directed my post toward Astroman. He was fuming so I fumed back. :wink:
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Spragwa
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Post by Spragwa »

Oh and I was wrong about the FA putting the anchors in but I'm certain he did it with permissin :D
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Astroman
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Post by Astroman »

Spragwa wrote:Oh and I was wrong about the FA putting the anchors in but I'm certain he did it with permissin :D
Yeah, I knew Lurkist bolted The Legend. I did not know he added the sub-anchor (which evidently he didn't)....

Don't get too fumed, Spragwa. Lurk and I are friends.
boulderguy133
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 11:18 pm

Post by boulderguy133 »

as for drying that shit, i did it with a shirt, not a blow torch, and it stayed dry for about a minute, which, yes, is still long enough to send the route. it sure was a bitch though. hopeufully everything dries out--i really want to climb on that again, awesome line.
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