quit top roping through fixed gear!

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:15 am

in many cases, a foot of chain costs as much as a single quicklink, so we can just replace the entire chain as easily as the quicklink alone. plus, saves $5 at the outset.

Post by **kato** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:56 pm

Wes wrote:gumbies hurting gumbies

cool route name

Post by JR » Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:34 pm

As far as I know not one single gumby has ever been hurt because they toproped throught the kind of anchors that Sandy showed. I know for a fact that gumbies have boat loads of fun at the New toproping on these kind of anchors. I love lowering(not rapping mind you) off these anchors. And I have got a feeling people like you will continue pouring time and energy into maintaining these kinds of things. THANKS.

Post by **CplBull** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:08 am

Like nobody here has ever top roped before... right!

Post by **anticlmber** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:56 pm

just rap rings dont work on steeper rock. also i have seen countless groups climb and then set up a TR through the chains. came upon a school group that had every draw hung on Face up to that crack and were TRing thru the chain. The "leader" didnt want to have to go back up to clean the route's anchors. let them know that was lame and not the way to do it. Nicely as i could. Best bet for slowing this process is to just put keychain biners at the anchors. first few dumbasses that TR thru them will send the message out loud and clear. THUD!!

Post by **manny** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:46 pm

JB wrote:Agreed... it's hard to teach newbies with a novice rope gun. The rope gun can finish the climb but doesn't think the newbies can... so he/she top ropes through the anchors so that he/she won't have to climb it again to clean.

That said, the culprit here is dirty ropes... clean ropes don't wear through anchors. We toprope through Fixe double ring anchors on our indoor wall and after a year and a half of constant abuse, we see absolutely NO wear on the rings. Why? our ropes are clean! dirty ropes are like a file on anchors, biners, and especially belay devices...

sorry...
::: lecture mode off :::

the reason is Rings rotate not fixe anchors soo the wear and tear is always at the same place

Ring anchors are much better for that !!!

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:51 pm

but how can your ropes stay clean JB? won't there be aluminum from the gri gri's transferring to the ropes?

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:33 pm

Look close PIG, is your Gri Gri made of Al.?

Post by JB » Tue Jan 31, 2006 12:34 am

the aluminum oxide (gross black stuff) that comes off ATCs and other belay devices may make the ropes dirty, but definitely doesn't saw through the anchors. The crumblies will!

and agreed that ring anchors do rotate and cause wear to be spread out. maybe i'll do an experiment with a super old dirty rope on some ring anchors and see if wear starts, because once a groove gets in the ring, it'll stop rotating. I still say dirty ropes speed up the process 10 fold.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:12 am

Oh no! Not the crumblies!!!