Time to send a route

[eroktix]

Here is a little bit of training info that ive figured out, you cant climb 5.12 by climbing 5.10. What this means is, just get on your route (prog.) or routes just above your level and rockclimb! You've got to be the one that pushes yorself no matter what your limit is. This works for any grade level your tring to climb. You'll get stronger just stick with it. Who cares if you fall or get pumped or cant do a move. Best training for climbing is climbing! ln a few weeks you'll in shape for your redpoint.

[Lateralus]

10-12 minutes or so are on the longish end I think for RRG red point burns, certainly not a fixed number by any means. Depends on the route of course. I think he knows climbing is the best training but doesn't have that luxury. I can relate I'm faced with the same dilemna every winter. We have a garage gym that offers the best endurance training in the form of long traverses. For that I try to go 200 feet with a few rests here and there to simulate a climb like Wes was saying. Sometimes I'll just pick a few songs that I know are a certain length and keep going until the song is over. Beware of pop bands, these won't make you any stronger just bitter, prog rock is where it's at 8)

[One-Fall]

Tom, I would work problems in your 80% range if you are pumping off alot. This will feed into your power endurance and allow you to make semi-difficult moves back-to-back without pumping off.

Most sends (if not on-sights) take about 5 minutes if there are only "decent" rests and the line is around 70 feet (although there are just too many variables to make this a blanket statement).

Clear as mud???

[Ascentionist]

One other bit of advice: try to condition yourself to climb with a pump. Be at ease with a slight pump and don't get anxious when you feel it starting to set in.

When I was at my best I could climb near my limit with a moderate pump and was very relaxed doing so. It takes time to know you body well enough to know exactly where your pump is taking you and how fast, but its good to be at that level and be comfortable.

Needless to say, I am not at that level now. But I have been running the treadwall at EKU. I try to focus on distance and overall time. I'll do 500-600 ft. in 100-200 ft. blocks and usually spend about 30 minutes total on the wall. I vary the angle from vertical to overhanging and try to do at least 100 ft at max overhanging. Usually I end up doing 2 50 ft. blocks at max and then cool down back at vertical for 100 ft.

It seemed to work really well. Of course, you need access to a treadwall.

[gneiss]

complex foot beta?????? we are talking about red river sport climbs correct?