I did this today. Get on it at your peril. It needs rebolting worse than any route I have ever seen. After hearing Terry talk about twisting bolt heads off of Super Dario with gentle hand weight on his wrench, I know that these bolts have to be as bad. Very, very rusted. Hold a fall? If what Terry experienced is true for this route around the corner (put up about the same time) then I doubt it.
I will try to rebolt this soon.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Is the bolt rusting out behind the hanger or what is going on?
The hanger are stainless so they look ok. The bolts and nuts are so corroded, on at least two, that it is difficult to tell where bolt stops and nut begins. The rest are so rusty that the galvanic rxn between the metals would preclude getting the nuts off (essential welded together). This is a wet section of cliff and these have gotten wet over time. Also, throw in the jingus 3/8 open shuts at the top separated by a generous maybe three inches of rock and well, it just makes you feel all warm and fuzzy as you stare at them after having cleaned the route, trying to calm the quiver in your voice, asking your belayer to lower you...
SLOW, GODDAMNIT!!!!!
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Power2U wrote:
Seems like there is a lot of bolt failing paranoia going around these days.
Man, I hear ya! Obviously, this case seems justified...but aside from this, most everyone I talk to these days is caught up in the bolts not being in a straight line, bolts being set wrong so the fall would be a grounder, too many bolts, not enough bolts....It's like an epidemic or something.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
