Frenchburg Overhangs

Post by **Jeff** » Sat Mar 29, 2003 12:40 am

Who's done it, and is it worth the "hike"?

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Mar 29, 2003 12:47 am

It's so-so. I think the history is what gives it all the rave. I'll tell ya what though........The Beeneling and WHat's Left of The Beeneling are two kick ass routes! If you aren't up to leading them you can drop a rope from the top of Frenchburg.

Post by **Jeff** » Sat Mar 29, 2003 12:54 am

Cool, sounds like about a days worth to me!
thanks

Post by **Danny** » Sat Mar 29, 2003 6:23 pm

I think Frenchburg is a good one for getting over fear of committing to overhangs. I have a friend that can climb 5.11 that freaked out on Frenchburg. The overhang part isn't even the crux. It's just good mental training. It has a nice view up top also and a little bit of offwidthish stuff. I agree about the Beeneling routes being great but they are definitely pretty hard, especially WLOTB, but it does totally rock.

Post by **Jeff** » Sat Mar 29, 2003 6:37 pm

Thanks Danny!
How's the gear at this fearsome overhang?
Can you get good pro before commiting, or is that what makes it so scary (lack of pro)?

Post by **Artsay** » Sun Mar 30, 2003 2:26 am

It's a very sporty gear route. There are many face holds and jugs. From what I remember, you can get some good gear in befor the roof (the first 15 feet or so), though not too close to the commiting move so it'll make you think. It's a good route and the hike's really not that bad. Do it!

Post by **Jeff** » Sun Mar 30, 2003 2:35 am

Cool, consider it done!

Post by **TradMike** » Sun Mar 30, 2003 3:46 pm

It's a great route! The #5 camalot will make you very happy at the top of the second pitch.

Post by **Steve** » Mon Mar 31, 2003 3:21 pm

That little overhang rocks. You can sew it up, and like Artsay said it is very sporty. The hike isn't that bad, if you hit the easy slope out of the creek bed. Its straight down and straight up, but not that long. Go do it, you bet disappointed.
As for The Beeneling and WLOTB they are a lesson in stemming and wiiide hands respectively. Makes for a good outing.

Post by **Danny** » Mon Mar 31, 2003 5:05 pm

about the approach. when you get down to the creek head right along the clif. the place to head back up is obvious because it is the only way up there. from there there is somewhat of a trail you can follow to the base of Frenchburg. I think the book describes going up the left side of the clif line but that approach is much harder bushwacking. The business of WLOTB is wide to good fists depending on the person. An awesome route from practicing fist jams -- you really HAVE to use them.