Soul Ram

Post by **One-Fall** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:36 pm

Anyone who has been on this, can you please tell me what strengths it plays to? How about quality of movement as well as the quality of the rock?

Post by **Wes** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:39 pm

Killer route - very techy. Great movement, but a little bit harsh on the tips. I thought it was tough for the grade.

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:36 pm

Sketchy lead. Tough clips. Relentless. No rests. Scary ending. Great line.

Post by **haas** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:38 pm

I thought it was a little hard fo the grade too, but super fun. I normally don't like vert, techy crimp routes, but this one was good. I think the top is hard to onsight

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 2:40 pm

Odyssey route. It just keeps coming at you all the way to the anchors. 12c.

Post by **One-Fall** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:02 pm

How does it compare to other 12b's (c's) out there? Orange Juice, Out on a Limb, Rifleman, etc . . .

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:29 pm

Harder. Not sure about OOAL though. I hear that thing is sick.

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:37 pm

Harder than OJ by a damn site. Not as hard as OOAL. That thing is old school 12d. I heard of a Porter route over in the NRG that is similar- Libertine. I hear that it is classic 4 star 12d. I think of that and OOAL as the technical vert 12+ standard bearer.

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 9:07 pm

Does Libertine have the Porter hangers on it?

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:53 pm

I don't know. I bet not. He did it right before he moved over here the early 90's. I am guessing he had real hangers on it. I heard from Russ Clune (who repeated it not long after it was done) and someone else (in Fayetteville) that it has seen very few repeats- which makes me compare it to OOAL - done about the same time and the same grade and both dead vert. I saw a picture of PJ on it back then in one of the Mags. He was enpointe - that is, very tips on toes on unseeable holds and fingers pimping on viscious micro crimps, elbows all tweaked out in the pumped elbow flare. The thing looked sick.
Speaking of rarely repeated routes, I also heard his "Get thee Behind me Satan" has rarely been repeated. It is right next to a Doug Reed 13b (?name). Both close to Libertine and Quinsana.
Maybe I am smackng my meat a bit here, but I think the standard those guys set was really high. Another like route is Doug Reed's "Fair Hope" at Rumbling Bald up at the hanging chain wall. 13b, maybe repeated 2-3 times.