That's enough of this Beene shit.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Danny
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 7:20 pm

That's enough of this Beene shit.

Post by Danny »

When I saw in the new guide that this route was closed I was pretty bumbed but to my surprise it isn't actually behind the fence at all. It had so much sand in the crack it doesn't seem like it's been touched since the FA. I managed to clean a good amount of the sand out on lead. I think it's a pretty classic hard sustained stemming route. At one point I was so trashed that I had completely given up except for the fact I was to afraid to let go run out at night on a small alien. A desparate throw got me a thumb down jam. Another throw got me another thin jam but I was so trashed I was still about to come off. I finally was able to make the jam solid and was saved. I rapped off an ancient micro nut and left another nut for backup. Bring a sling to equalize the nuts for a solid anchor. With small cams I don't think this route is R.
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Artsay
Posts: 3282
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:11 pm

Post by Artsay »

That sounds like one crazy lead, Danny. Props to you for getting on such an overlooked route and reviving its hidden treasures.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Sounds kina R to me. Run out ,tiny gear. Your nads get any bigger you'll have to keep em in yer socks.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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