I have a question: What about all the other bolts and draws that are absorbing some of the force of a victory whip? Is all the force of a fall really only absorbed by one bolt? It's my primitive understanding of physics that those other bolts, and including the rope will do work and absorb some of he impact.
I really want to see that article that is going to be published with some numbers so I can decide what I think about this stuff myself.
The only bolt that's going to take the direct load is the one you are falling on. If the bolts are not drilled in a straight line and are zigzagged up the face, they may be getting loaded from being pulled in sideways (the rope will try to straighten). Most routes are drilled with the bolts in a more less vertical line and will not take any load in a fall.
