Orange Juice

Post by **One-Fall** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 12:25 am

I have been here close to four years and finally got on this amazing climb (good job, Hugh). For anyone that remembers, around 50-60 feet, after the fun part, there is a crux with crimps and gaston's. I ended up dynoing for the jug, and I know that isn't the way. Any suggestions?

Please no Vitamin C or BETA carotine jokes.

Post by **Danny** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 1:05 am

I think most people dyno. I saw a guy do it static onsight. He went up, hung out on crimps forever and down climbed about 5 times before he commited and pulled it. It looked really hard that way. After all that he blew the relatively easy last throw to the ledge. Guess he didn't like dynamic moves.

Post by **Gaar** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 1:38 am

Watch spencers movie he put the whole damn route in it!

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:48 am

Dyno for sure.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:11 am

The video showed it static.

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:19 pm

in the video it was definitly a deadpoint lunge

Post by **eroktix** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 11:10 pm

deadpoint! dont be a chuffer! dont care how tall or short you are, unless you got the right temps to make the crimps velcro crisp. or you are 5.14 strong, you deadpoint.

Post by **Roentgen Ray** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 12:11 am

That move is a delicate balance between a dyno and thrutching helplessly.

Post by **Power2U** » Thu Oct 13, 2005 12:47 am

one-fall,

Good to see your out getting on quality routes. OJ is good an it goes down smooth if done right. Although a little dead point or dynamic umph to make a move is often more efficient than doing it statically. Good luck on it... You getting out during the week? PM me..maybe we could hook up.

Later,
P2U