40 ounces of freedom

Post by **davetieri** » Sat Mar 22, 2003 3:42 am

just wondering if anyone has information about the rumor that 40 ounces of freedom in the madness cave has had numerous hold broken off and is now not climbable

Post by **KennyT** » Thu Mar 27, 2003 9:04 pm

Dave,
I was on 40 last weekend for the first time. If any holds have ever broken off, it is not at all more difficult than the grade (13a) suggests. A great route...too bad I can't come back up to the Red this weekend to lay siege.

The route's start confused me, though. Some friends of mine said the guidebook prescribes aiding up to the first bolt, but chalked holds tell me someone's been able to free it. The climbing looks easy, but the holds don't look like they'll hold more than a few pounds at best.
later

Post by **davetieri** » Sun Apr 06, 2003 4:41 am

cool! i will get on it next time at the red... thanks alot kenny

Post by **allah** » Mon Apr 07, 2003 9:44 pm

I thought it was 40 ounces of Justice?

Post by **KennyT** » Wed Apr 09, 2003 2:04 pm

you're right, it is 'justice'...this is confusing for people like me b/c we've got a route called 40oz of freedom down here at the Obed.

Post by **Legion** » Wed Apr 09, 2003 4:19 pm

"'cuz a 40 ounce to freedom is the only chance I have to feel good even when I feel baaaaaad"

Post by **Spoonman** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 2:02 pm

The crux (first two bolts on roof) used to crumble quite often. I broke a hold in that area a few years ago and then someone else ripped off a large one about a month later. I haven't been back on it since, but I hear it has stabilized somwhat? I plan to get on it anyway this season. It is still 13a, and most people A0 to the first bolt.

Forty Ounces of Justice refers (maybe) to the forty ounces of glue used in the crux.