Overhangs

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:19 am

So I'm finally starting to catch on to the fact that overhangs require technique that I don't seem to have yet. I've noticed that I climb a number grade harder on vertical stuff compared to overhanging. Maybe my training is off-balanced?

I'm looking for suggestions on how hot improve/develop/get climbing skills for overhanging rock/plastic. I just don't see how people can hang on those holds that I just grease off of.

Post by **n0ir** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:37 am

technique wise, i watched other people to learn. I'm better at vertical then on overhang routes as well, specially since I climb slow and staticly which can tire you out faster on overhang. Have to keep your body close to the wall also, drop knees help with this and core strength.

Some suggestions I have are just to try it a lot but try and find the easiest movements to do it. Do overhung boulder problems also to learn the movement and build some strength. For pure strength on overhung routes, dead hangs, campusing, system boards/HIT strips at 30-45 degrees, bocher ladder. Shoulders get use a lot more on overhang as well.

Post by **Paul3eb** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 11:31 am

learn how to hang straight armed and how to not over grip. more than that, just keep getting on overhanging routes..

Post by **Sunshine** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 11:47 am

Foot, knee, and leg work. Camming, jamming, and hanging from these body parts are tricks of the trade.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 1:10 pm

work that 11 at the left of Solarium unless thats too easy and if thats the case well... go to Obed or that area down by Sand Rock, for vibes read Rob Robinson's older guidebook to Tenn. Wall-theres a bunch of roofs down in that area you can test your new technique and power on.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 1:12 pm

Yeah, work that .11 because that's the ONLY overhanging in the Red.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:14 pm

quite true, sorry i went from overhang to roof, guess I'm a goof

Post by **Christian** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:01 pm

Crankmas wrote:quite true, sorry i went from overhang to roof, guess I'm a goof

that doesn't rhyme. try again.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:37 pm

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:46 pm

Paul3eb wrote:learn how to hang straight armed and how to not over grip. more than that, just keep getting on overhanging routes..

I was thinking about that, but it seems to confuse me a bit. Are we talking about hanging like the guy on BOHICA is on the cover of the old guide or hanging with the hips in close to the wall? With the hips out it seems like you'd start pulling out on the hold as you move up on it then grease.