Historical query and clarification

Post by **Ascentionist** » Thu Sep 22, 2005 5:28 pm

Ok, anyone out there have a clue exactly where the East Ridge route is on Courthouse? Is it the obvious (but steep) prow that you first see as you come close to the rock. Or would it be on around to the right, perhaps the 5.8R/X slab just left of the Standard Route?

Any thoughts on this?

And at Haystack...which do you think is the original route mentioned in John's guide? First, there is the now seemingly standard route which starts in the saddle and goes up through the spherical feature. Then there is another line of the same grade a few yards to the left which also sort of sounds like the route. Its similar in grade, starts OVER the steep gully as mentioned in the guide and has a dish type thingy along the way as well. It obviously gets less traffic and is slightly more R-rated than the standard route. But I think it may be the original route mentioned. I might be wrong on this, just wondering if anyone else has noticed the line there.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Sep 22, 2005 7:02 pm

Good Question. I did the first thing you mentioned at Haystack and had good pro.
I noticed the the water groove thing above the gully while searching for DRS.It didn't look as protectable. I'm headed out there this weekend. Want to come along Chris?

Post by **haas** » Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:02 pm

Chris, I believe the East Ridge Route is around to the right, the line that looked best to me is accessed by scrambling up around the left to get to the Bolt Route, then continue around the corner a little more. I did all these solo and tried to find the East Ridge too. The prow felt a bit hard for 5.8 and I downclimbed.

As for Haystack, I think the original line is the right one (the one you call the standard route as if tons of people do it

besides you, me, and ynot.) If you go up that way, if you look close you'll see the remains of an old chopped bolt. The other line is good too, but I think the bolt would indicate the original route, but I'm just guessing.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:33 pm

Here's John's description:
"Haystack 5.3 R *
Scramble down to a saddle between the end of the ridge and Haystack Rock. Begin climbing above a steep gully, then pass a large dish on the right on your way to the apex. Shun the old anchors at the top and scramble back down instead."

Here is what I see on Haystack:

Original Route (mentioned above): Starts in the large rockhouse on the NE corner (right side of the face that faces the main ridge), climb the face between the rockhouse and the satellite dish past two bolts. One bolt is actually in the rockhouse floor and is only a sleeve. The other is the one haas mentioned. This felt easier than the other two routes I'll mention but no pro. It seems like the most obviouse line for the '60s and early '70s.

Standard Route: Begins below and climbs through the satellite dish and exits left or right. Feels 5.3 and slightly R, but not too serious.

Left Variation: start over the left-hand steep gully just past the first significant tree. Climb up to an alcove with a deep hole in it. Move slightly left to a crack-ish type thing and follow it to the summit. Once again, the grade seems about 5.3 and this one is most definitely R-rated but very solid climbing is involved. Its also slightly more exposed but gets far less traffic than any of the other routes. I mistook this for the original route because it starts over the steeper of the two gullies.

Also, there is a 4th class scramble to the summit. Very exposed, very serious. Traverse left around the slabby ledge to the SW corner of the rock and head straight up to the summit. Sketchy downclimb.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:46 pm

I think you are right Haas. The center line protects well. DRS is well worth the hike out there,and the trail is long but casual.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:53 pm

Saw you did the other route that day. I should have stayed.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:02 pm

Auxier chimney. Its a scramble. Maybe a good gumby route. It was clean. Two FS agents showed up to do an impact study while we were leaving.They asked lots of questions, and offered to call in a rescue to carry me out but I limped out on my own. I just kept focusing on that ice cold pepsi I was gonna have instead of the pain. It was a good day until shit happened.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:11 pm

Whoa! What happened? Didn't know about any limping.

I came back to the thread to confirm my suspicions. I looked in the museum at Pearsall's guide and it makes it sound even more like the rockhouse past the bolts is the original route.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:46 pm

I think I agree with Haas on the East Ridge route on Courthouse. The old bolt you can see on the east face is probably part of that route. I always assumed it was a seperate line that went straight up, but if you clipped the bolt, then traversed hard left you could get out to the arete and then friction to the summit. Looks doable at 5.5. That bolt definitely wouldn't bring it down from and X rating, if anything it would support an X rating and little else.

It is about 5.8 X if you go straight up at the bolt.