Lower or rappel? Who cares, but DON"T toprope!
Lower or rappel? Who cares, but DON"T toprope!
I have seen four different groups this week toproping through anchors. The unfortunate thing is I will see four more next week. One of these groups had a guide and was a group of 12 to 15 people on C Sharp... The other group that I said something to replied that they had been climbing 12 years and not died yet. Of course they haven't died, it is the next guy that will. I would think that with 12 years of experience you would just know better! They were doing laps on RO, so not to big of a deal; nobody climbs that route anyway.
Yeah, unfortunately, those fuck-tards will catch up with one of us instead. You would think that after 12 fucking years of climbing, that they would realize that maybe they aren't going to wear straight thru the anchors, but hey, someone has to replace them eventually. I'm sure those 12 year vets aren't going to be out there doing it. They'll probably move on to the next area, and fucking with someone's anchors and accepted practices there too. I don't have as direct of an approach as kdelap does... but at the same time, it gets old, really quickly.
Maybe the approach wasn't as political as I would be... but honestly, if you've been climbing for 12 years and you can't even acknowledge the logic behind NOT running a top rope thru the anchors, then you're just fucking delusional to think you know anything. Minimizing the wear on the anchors is just plain goddamn polite. If you've got 12 fucking years of experience, it's not going to cost you a testicle to leave two goddamn draws at the top until your dumbass partners can clean the route. Why needlessly fuck the rest of us into having to prematurely replace anchors because your 12 years of experienced ass doesn't have the goddamn decency to use two draws and clean one silly little fucking route?
And you know what? I don't know how to replace the anchors, and once I have more experience, I will get involved with those kinds of things. Until then, my inexperienced, stupid newb ass is going to minimize wear and tear on anchors by doing the non-fucktard intelligent things that I have learned. You know, using draws to top-rope, rapping off instead of lowering if possible.. etc... I know these are things that just might have escaped someone in their solid 12 years of climbing, but I guess I'm just a smart little cookie.
12 years of climbing with your head up your ass. Impressive. Who knows what they could get up if they manage to ply their heads from their sphincters?
As for the "guide" with 12 people... If I'm there next time, let's take a whipper from the top of a route, and tell them that the anchors broke because some dipshit had top-roped straight thru the anchors. I'll cry hysterically and ask him why he was trying to kill me. Then I'll urinate on myself and crap my pants while playing a tuba. We'll see if that gets his goddamn attention.
Maybe the approach wasn't as political as I would be... but honestly, if you've been climbing for 12 years and you can't even acknowledge the logic behind NOT running a top rope thru the anchors, then you're just fucking delusional to think you know anything. Minimizing the wear on the anchors is just plain goddamn polite. If you've got 12 fucking years of experience, it's not going to cost you a testicle to leave two goddamn draws at the top until your dumbass partners can clean the route. Why needlessly fuck the rest of us into having to prematurely replace anchors because your 12 years of experienced ass doesn't have the goddamn decency to use two draws and clean one silly little fucking route?
And you know what? I don't know how to replace the anchors, and once I have more experience, I will get involved with those kinds of things. Until then, my inexperienced, stupid newb ass is going to minimize wear and tear on anchors by doing the non-fucktard intelligent things that I have learned. You know, using draws to top-rope, rapping off instead of lowering if possible.. etc... I know these are things that just might have escaped someone in their solid 12 years of climbing, but I guess I'm just a smart little cookie.
12 years of climbing with your head up your ass. Impressive. Who knows what they could get up if they manage to ply their heads from their sphincters?
As for the "guide" with 12 people... If I'm there next time, let's take a whipper from the top of a route, and tell them that the anchors broke because some dipshit had top-roped straight thru the anchors. I'll cry hysterically and ask him why he was trying to kill me. Then I'll urinate on myself and crap my pants while playing a tuba. We'll see if that gets his goddamn attention.
hoo-leee shit...
I was aware that top-roping through the anchors prematurely wears grooves into the metal, but I didn't know how quickly until recently. Corduroy and I changed the anchors on "Manifest Destiny" 2 weeks ago (this route is less than 1 year old) and the anchors were grooved more than halfway through! We couldn't believe that they were already eroded so dramatically. Imagine what it must be like on more popular routes after only 2 or 3 years!
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
**shakes head** I dont understand some people... Though i do like Powen's ideas to get their attention. Maybe we should get pictures of the worn anchors, blow them up and then put them on the bulliten board, doors, and tables with the "Dont take your breakhand off the rope while using a grigri" sign, lol. I think it would be funny to see what percentage of people who TR through the anchors AND take their breakhand off the rope. 
Last edited by Like This on Wed Sep 28, 2005 4:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.