Black Canyon, CO / Russian Arête (aka Russian Roulette)

Post by **TradMike** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:28 am

The route from accross the canyon

It's neighbors

Looking 2,000 ft. down from the observation area

The hike down to the start of the climb

Looking up at the route wondering how big those roof are going to be

The physical crux pitch. This pitch took every climbing move I've ever done. Completely stellar pitch!

Climbers across the way on Comic Relief. Can you see the climber in the middle of the dihedral? They were the only others climbers in the entire canyon that day.

Viewing up river

Viewing down river

Being schooled on why they call it the Black Canyon. Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain. Good thing it was short lived and dried out quickly!

Some of the typical climbing on the route

Top Out

Post by **ynot** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:40 am

sweeeeeet. How many pitches? Those pics just beg for more of a trip report.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 2:16 am

Great shots! Thanks for sharing those, man. I've been curious about the Black Canyon since I read about it in American Rock-- it sounded pretty intimidating! Looks like you had a wonderful time.

Post by **Saxman** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 2:38 am

WOW Almost foreboding looking in some of the shots.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:58 am

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:02 pm

amazing place have a great time and thanks

Post by **Christian** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:20 pm

breathtaking.

Post by **TradMike** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:58 pm

I still have a buzz from that climb and had to share the pics. The climb consisted of 8 complete rope length pitches of 5.8 to 5.9+. Then we simul-climbed the last 400 ft. of easy terrain for a total of 2,000 ft. I don't know if the lightning storm was scarier than the pegmatite or the potential for rock fall. One pitch has a pegmatite traverse. Pegmatite consists of packed, shattered gravel. The white bands of peg in the cliffs are face climbing horror shows. The stuff just crumbles under your weight and sticks to your shoes. The lightning storm had bolts going everywhere through the sky which didn't seem very far away being at 8,500 ft. And as a reminder of rock fall hazard the climb next to it, Lauren's Arête, is named after a person who was unfortunately struck. All in all, the Black Canyon lives up to its reputation. It must be taken very serious and with a little luck. Comic Relief and Escape Artist are the recommended first climbs to do in the Canyon. They looked very fun and big. There's also a new moderate over near them that climbs the best pitches of several climbs.

Here are a few more photos

Upper half of Comic Relief as the storm started to rolls in

Summit

Post by **redpointron** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 12:50 am

i can't believe i missed this for the past 6 weeks...must've been doing something else

the amazing irony is...i was topping out on the russian arete within the same hour you made your original post. your pictures are great especially the first one (since i never made it over to the south rim -- that is an awesome view).

like you, found the route to have taken everything i could give...9 pitches of solid 8+ or 9 climbing followed by several hundred feet of soloing (the slabs can be seen as a bright white "tear drop" at the top of the arete).

didn't have the rain or the lightning, but ran out of water and was tremendously dehydrated by the time we got back to the ranger station.

probably my most proud accomplishment in 10 years of climbing. thanks so much for taking the pictures and sharing them. i posted a picture from the river in the album...not smart enough to put it in the thread.

regards.

r.r.

p.s. did a variation of leisure climb the day before and it was a great intro to the area.

Post by **strum** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:03 am

nice man, we did that route, er actually the aid routh right next to it last feb.

sweet rocks. sweet, seemed like a loose wall, but that is the Black for you!