If you only have one day at the New and want to do sport stuff, then you should probably go to Kaymoor. You can warm up on Flight of the Gumbie (stellar 5.9), then head back up the hill (left of Gumbie) and do a couple of easy 10s, then do Sancho Belige (to the right of the easy 10s) and some of the mid-11s. Head back down past Flight of the Gumbie to do some more mid-11s like Bimbo Shrine and the others in that area.
The other option for concentrated 10 and 11 sport climbing would be Summersville or Bubba City, although Summersville is better IMO.
The New
Roger kinda creeps me out. There's free camping on a beach if you go south on 19 and follow the signs to Thurmond. There's also free camping by the Summersville Lake Dam, but it's not rare to get woken up at 3 AM to CCR blaring and rednecks yelling that they're going to beat their wives. There's also a real nice Battle Run. You'll turn off of 19 towards the dam and follow it over the damn, i'll be on your right within 10 min. or so. It's $14 a night per site and you can fit 2-3 tents no problem. They have the nicest showers i've seen at any camp ground.
You can't really go wrong with the sport at Summersville lake. Endless is cool, but ssomething about it is way intimidating.
You can't really go wrong with the sport at Summersville lake. Endless is cool, but ssomething about it is way intimidating.
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True, much of the camping area is sloped, but there are more terraces and flat spots than there are slopes. I've stayed there many, many, MANY times over the last 12-13 years and I've never had a sloped camping spot. There was always a flat spot to be found. Roger is a good friend and a genuinely nice guy, I'm not quite sure why he would be considered creepy.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
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some guys i know arrived late to rogers after everyone was sleeping, so they decided to toss their sleeping bags on rogers front steps to not seem like they were trying to steal camping. they awoke very early to see that roger had let all the air out of their tires and told them that's what they get for not paying. he then offered to fill their tires back up for money.
roger doesn't sound creepy...sounds like a fucking asshole.
roger doesn't sound creepy...sounds like a fucking asshole.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
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Uh, that's sounds hokey, but oh well.
There is a box infront of the store where you can drop off your payment if no one is around. Plenty of times, we don't pay for camping til the next day and Roger's been fine with it.
We are talking about Roger at Kaymoor, right?
There is a box infront of the store where you can drop off your payment if no one is around. Plenty of times, we don't pay for camping til the next day and Roger's been fine with it.
We are talking about Roger at Kaymoor, right?
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley