The New

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
Andy
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:48 pm

The New

Post by Andy »

I'm heading to the New for my first time, this weekend, with my wife. I was hoping to get some beta on the place...
-if we only have one day to climb which crag should we hit? we're sporties able to do up to mid-11's (in the Red), though some warm ups would be nice.
-where should we camp? primitive doesn't bother us...
- where should we eat? is there a Miguel's of the New? or just any tasty local kitchens we simply must sample?
- if the desire to hit some white water should seize us who should we go with?
Thanks. I know you all are great and super-duper helpful, so thanks in advance.
"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go."
-- T.S. Eliot
Meadows
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

newriverclimbing.org
meetVA
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Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:13 pm

Post by meetVA »

The Cathedral. for breakfast!
It's located in a little town right near the New.

All I really remember climbing at the New was trad so I'm sorry about not being able to give you any sport beta.
And there is a campground without any level ground (from what I hear) where the climbers like to congregate call Robert's or Joseph's or something. There was a thread on rockclimbing.com about it.
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
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A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
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Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

1: Central endless is a great intro to the New.
2: Rodgers is where a lot of climbers stay, but unless you are sleeping in your car or can sleep on a slope, I like the campground on the other side of the bridge better. Chestnut creek is good.
3: Cathradel cafe for breakfast (or Tudor's). There used to be a place called the sodona grill in downtown, but I think they may have moved. Good stuff.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Andrew
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

ask eroktix, he has the info. But what wes said was right on.
Living the dream
Crankmas
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Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

Rafted with ACE outfitters a couple weeks ago- it was casual- look into Summersville Lake for routes and swimming also.
squeezindlemmon
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Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

1. Bridge Buttress is great as far as access, but this also means that it could be really busy. If it's too hot, hit Summersville Lake.
2. I second Wes on Roger's, there's really no other choice for campsite at the New whenever J-Rock and I are there except for the free camping at Burnwood during the Rendezvous (the only time camping is allowed there, I think).
3. Breakfast at Cathedral, dinner at Sedona Grill (just keep following that main street, I can't remember what it's called), or Dirty Ernie's for bbq (more of a hangout for rafters/kayakers), Pies and Pints is great for pizza (they also have a bike shop and rents out mtn bikes).
4. Songer is a really great company to go do any water sport with.
5. Swing by Blue Ridge Outdoors for any other info.
6. Beer at Cherry's (or something like that).
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
squeezindlemmon
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Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

Scratch that on Bridge Buttress, I think they're mostly trad.
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
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Jeff
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

Can't go wrong with Chestnut Creek for camping.
Go over the bridge towards Summersville, past the turn to the overlook, take the next right, up the hill, see the sign, go down the gravel road on your left.
Sites are spaced well apart, flat, firepits, shower house...

Unless you are looking for real cheap/free camping. Then probably Rogers with the hillside.
Chestnut Creek is only $10 or so a night.
Steve
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:34 am

Post by Steve »

Wes wrote:There used to be a place called the sodona grill in downtown, but I think they may have moved. Good stuff.
Just outside of town, past Charlie's Pub. Still very good.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
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