Routesetting, indoor gym

[Christian]

Thanks guys.

[Andrew]

Don't try to force things all the time. Alot of people when they are first setting routes have a move in mind and try force it into a route, but the problem is that the move was never going to be how they wanted it to be, no matter how hard they try. What I am trying to say is be flexible in your setting and let the route flow. I often times have an idea for a move and then I try to put it into a route and realize it won't work or I will realize I have accidentally made something much better. Don't make moves harder by making them longer, and remember people of all sizes.

[squeezindlemmon]

Also, there is such a thing as over tightening a hold. As much as I hate spinning holds, some holds can warp and never lay flat again if you over tighten it.

[Paul3eb]

common mistakes: using the wrong bolt, routes that meander too much, inconsistent routes (one hard move, the rest is easy), setting to your strengths, height dependent moves, dynos on route (sometimes alright but usually just silly), and the biggest mistake i see - the notion that small holds equals harder routes.

ways to make good stuff: use the right bolt; for the most part, stay under your anchor; keep the flow and don't thrown in huge rests (especially on short walls); add an extra foot here or there for short people, even if you think it's unnecessary (either it'll help someone short or throw people off, both good things); have other people climb it; don't force a move - if you have a move in mind but it's not working out, skip the section and come back to it or just do something different; set hard routes that aren't just small but have tough moves, eg: cross throughs, lock offs, drop knees, etc.; and don't sell the easy routes short - put just as much, if not more, time into the easy routes, it really pays off..

and take plenty of time to think through the logistics. an ascender attached to a bucket of holds helps. a shoulder bag with bolts.. yada yada.. hope that helps some

[tomdarch]

I'll echo what a lot of other people have said: practice! Just start putting up routes and a lot of the issues will become clear to you (in a way that can't be explained ahead of time). Particularly with toprope routes, you can't go too wrong saftey-wise (stay under the anchors), and besides, if the result sucks, just strip it and try again, or strip the sucky section and re-set that.

As ideal as it would be to set indoor routes that are like outdoor climbing, it's really hard to do. An alternative is to embrace the artificiality - climb at a variety of gyms and figure out what you like and don't like, then imitate (steal! copy! sample!) what you do like.

There are also different goals in setting routes. From super easy beginner routes to bad-ass routes and bouder problems, each style has its own issues. But to get started, just set, see what you think of it and ask for feedback. Also, as with any 'creative' thing, you can't please everyone!

[squeezindlemmon]

The other thing I remember from my first days of routesetting indoors is that I was told to set simple stuff first (left-right-left-right movements)... nothing too fancy in the beginning. Then when you totally get the hang of it, start incorporating interesting moves every now and then.

[Paul3eb]

oh! and keep the tape simple as long as you can. that means single pieces with one color. if you run out of colors, run perpendicular stripes. ideally, place on end of the tape under the hold; that'll keep it on the wall longer and prevent feet from ripping it off. that said, it takes a lot of extra time. mashing it in with your fingers or a rag helps. also, consider if you can see the tape from above, ie: when you're climbing.

[squeezindlemmon]

Speaking of colors, try not to use purple next to brown next to dark blue next to black. They will all tend to look the same.

[Paul3eb]

and silver is often invisible if you have overhead lights..

[pigsteak]

and pigsteak is color blind....so I hate all taped routes.

unlike jrock and wes, I prefer to make my outdoor routes similar to the ones I set inside.