Routesetting, indoor gym

Post by **Christian** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:30 pm

gumby question: what is the best way to learn how to set routes at an indoor gym? 32 foot wall

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:32 pm

practice and ask for critique from experienced climbers and setters. Climbing alot of routes indoors and outdoors.

Post by **Saxman** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:33 pm

Set routes and have everyone yell at you for the crap you put up. You'll get proficient in no time.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:33 pm

Christian wrote:gumby question: what is the best way to learn how to set routes at an indoor gym? 32 foot wall

Use outside routes as inspireation. Maybe not the same moves, but at least the general flow. I have set indoor boulder problems that were inspired by outside problems that I liked.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:35 pm

Just slap up a few holds, try to climb it and then tweak it. At least that's how I learned! Make sure it flows and the movements are not contrived....

Oh, there are also the tiny details like correct bolt to use and length of bolt.... there's also the "correct" way of taping up the holds.

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:36 pm

Like the others said... trial and error, practice, practice, practice. I also like what Wes said. Often I find inspiration for setting indoor climbs from something really cool on an outdoor route. It's also helpful to travel and climb lots of styles of routes of varying angles and difficulties on different type of rock. This will really unleash your creative potential.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:38 pm

You can also check out Louie Anderson's The Art of Course Setting, although nothing really compares to just hands on.

http://www.voodooholds.com/product.aspx?ID=360

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:40 pm

Oh yeah, I've noticed that many beginning route setters have difficulty placing appropriate footholds in the proper places and this greatly affects the flow of the route. Experiment and find what flows (not only for yourself, but for others as well). Also, remember that people of different heights and abilities will be on most of the routes.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:48 pm

J-Rock, for sure. Getting the feet set up right was/is always tricky for me. Adding or removing a little foot chip here and there can make all the difference.

Post by **longlegsrule** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 1:49 pm

Don't think that one super hard (silly) move in your problem make it good...make the whole problem flow...

and in gyms there is limited space...so don't just think for your height or your strength...

know that "easy problems" get ratings and climbs too...seems like there are enough people setting "hard"

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Routesetting, indoor gym

Routesetting, indoor gym

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