Bolting on lead question

Post by **ABACUS** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:28 pm

What is the standard aid rack for bolting on lead? Bolting overhangs? anyone want to run me thorough the how to's of bolting ground up?

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:30 pm

Talk to JJ.

Post by **haas** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 8:52 pm

first, get a good selection of hooks, which you'll use to weight yourself on if you don't bolt only from no hand stances. Also, general trad gear works well even on sport routes, especially in the red. Tricams fit in pockets, RPs, nuts, etc. but for the most part, hooks. Ground up is a dying art

Post by **Wes** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:32 pm

If you are aid bolting steep routes, then maybe some rivets to place between bolts. Otherwise, standard trad gear with plenty of hooks is there. Some of the routes in the motherload were put up on lead with rivets, as doing it that way was easier then rap bolting due to the steepness.

Post by **eroktix** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:12 pm

just rap bolt the damn thing. its 'sport climbing' for gods sake. still takes alot of gear and effort

Post by **Ultra** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:09 pm

get a full set of cam hooks (small,big and fragile flake)and get two BD talons. Also get two Yates adjustable daisies and two etriers. Having a bat hook helps, too.

If, as you are aiding, you set the bolts as you climb. You'll never need any other gear for protection. Just clip the bolts as you go. Oh yeah, get a Bos'wain seat(or make one)

Post by **allah** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:20 am

the Just be a wanker and get a few Removable Bolts

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:45 am

here is a con of bolting on lead. It has occured that people don't find the best line and bolt the line they get started on, letting the features they get gear on/in dictate where the line goes- in the end a pile gets put up. Case in point- the heap to the right of Jack in the Pulpit. Steve Grossman- a very prolific and very experienced southwestern desert tower climber put it up when he and his crew were building the gym in Columbus. Nothing against Steve (he is a great guy), but that route was ill advised and if done from the top down might have been better.
The take home is, as always, if the line looks less than 4 star, back off and look else where. There is too much good rock to put up crappy routes.
On the other hand, Brian McCray put up the Subman (aka The High Hard One) on lead at the Lode, and it is a classic. (the cave routes where all done from the top down- albeit with a lot of 1/4 inch aid bolts).

Post by **eroktix** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 2:10 am

If your bolting a new route you should have a good idea of what your doing anyway. So i hope you got a clue ABACUS, because if its at the red this new route your planning is going up, or anywhere for that matter. It better be a good one or you'll never live it down. Good luck, sucker!

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 2:12 am

Big balls are helpful. Really big balls... The few routes that I bolted on lead were pretty scary and I definitely prefer rap bolting whenever possible. However, I have a tremendous amount of respect for the old school guys that bolted on lead.