Bolting on lead question
Bolting on lead question
What is the standard aid rack for bolting on lead? Bolting overhangs? anyone want to run me thorough the how to's of bolting ground up?
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- Posts: 1452
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm
If you are aid bolting steep routes, then maybe some rivets to place between bolts. Otherwise, standard trad gear with plenty of hooks is there. Some of the routes in the motherload were put up on lead with rivets, as doing it that way was easier then rap bolting due to the steepness.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
get a full set of cam hooks (small,big and fragile flake)and get two BD talons. Also get two Yates adjustable daisies and two etriers. Having a bat hook helps, too.
If, as you are aiding, you set the bolts as you climb. You'll never need any other gear for protection. Just clip the bolts as you go. Oh yeah, get a Bos'wain seat(or make one)
If, as you are aiding, you set the bolts as you climb. You'll never need any other gear for protection. Just clip the bolts as you go. Oh yeah, get a Bos'wain seat(or make one)
Do you like apples? Well, how do you like [b]THEM APPLES[/b]
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- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
here is a con of bolting on lead. It has occured that people don't find the best line and bolt the line they get started on, letting the features they get gear on/in dictate where the line goes- in the end a pile gets put up. Case in point- the heap to the right of Jack in the Pulpit. Steve Grossman- a very prolific and very experienced southwestern desert tower climber put it up when he and his crew were building the gym in Columbus. Nothing against Steve (he is a great guy), but that route was ill advised and if done from the top down might have been better.
The take home is, as always, if the line looks less than 4 star, back off and look else where. There is too much good rock to put up crappy routes.
On the other hand, Brian McCray put up the Subman (aka The High Hard One) on lead at the Lode, and it is a classic. (the cave routes where all done from the top down- albeit with a lot of 1/4 inch aid bolts).
The take home is, as always, if the line looks less than 4 star, back off and look else where. There is too much good rock to put up crappy routes.
On the other hand, Brian McCray put up the Subman (aka The High Hard One) on lead at the Lode, and it is a classic. (the cave routes where all done from the top down- albeit with a lot of 1/4 inch aid bolts).
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
Big balls are helpful. Really big balls... The few routes that I bolted on lead were pretty scary and I definitely prefer rap bolting whenever possible. However, I have a tremendous amount of respect for the old school guys that bolted on lead.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder