Caver's Route

[Feanor007]

hey,

had a couple of questions 'bout the route

are there bolts/anchors at the the belays?
are double ropes needed for rapell only or for the actuall climbing as well?
is the descent strait forward or complex?
how run-out is the the run-out?

[J-Rock]

There is one bolt on the squeeze chimney. There are no bolts on the belays, but you are on comfortable ledges. We've done the decent with one 60m rope (walked down from the summit toward Arachnid and Africa to a large hemlock on the edge of the cliff - I don't know the current statis of this tree though so, two would would be better). The run-out is reasonable and on very easy climbing. You will probably not fall.

[haas]

the bolt is old school POS, but you can sling a great horn on the other side of the crack exactly where the bolt is. Makes you wonder why it's even there. I placed two pieces on the whole route, a sling there, and a nut on the exit moves towards the summit. Once on top there's a tree with slings around it to the right pretty close to the route and we did it in one rap with a 70meter. It's an excellent route, I recommend it to everyone no matter how hard they climb, you should do it once

Oh and if you like the caver part of the route, get on Fat Man's Misery at Purgatory. It's 5.4 with great gear and a sweet tunnel finish to the anchors. (Bring large pro)

[Gaar]

Run out from bottom to top! Wait i didnt use a rope! Neither should you, it is a cake climb that is well worth it!

[dhoyne]

hey,

had a couple of questions 'bout the route

are there bolts/anchors at the the belays?
are double ropes needed for rapell only or for the actuall climbing as well?
is the descent strait forward or complex?
how run-out is the the run-out?

I did this climb a few months ago.
No anchors, use a tree. Double ropes will help but as said are not absoluteley necessary.

I would bring alot of long slings to help the massive rope drag if you place a bunch of gear as the climb is nowhere near a straight line.

The bolt is old and small, but really you won't need it -- the climb is very easy at that point.

The run-out is about 20 feet, but it's pretty much impossible to fall as you're really wedged in.

Do NOT do this climb if you're a larger person. I'm 6'4", 210 lbs and I DID NOT FIT. I ended up climbing the face instead of the squeeze chimney. I tried for a LONG time, and got very close several times, but there's a constriction that literally left me where I couldn't take a deep breath because it was so tight.

[Day]

Caver's is the first rock climb I ever did. Dead of winter, 7 degrees F., snow and ice everywhere. It was a blast, and I was hopelessly hooked.

[Ascentionist]

Very little gear, but you wouldn't fall anyway. There is a slot under the old bolt that takes about a #4 cam. There is good gear for the belay above the bolt and you can do awesome body belays after that. The route is actually very safe, due more to the nature of the climbing than the protectability. I always do two raps from the summit. One short rap (or downclimb) on the NW corner of the main chimney from the summit. Then walk due west along the south edge of the chimney (around some bushes and boulders) to a small pine at the efge of the crack. Rappelling from this will get you to the ground with a 60m rope. You'll be rappelling through the bomb bay chimney variation to the route. Very cool rappel.

[Zspider]

I don't like climbing a stairway without putting in gear, but I've lead it and was not uncomfortable. If you can lead 5.8 on a well-protected route, I think you will be OK with Cavers as long as you can "get your mind right" for the 20 foot runout.

[ynot]

Sounds like everyone gets down a different way. There's a tree on the top backside. A little searching around and you'll find it. A 60 gets you down from there. The more times you do the route the more pro you find but it's still runnout.
Cavers is one of my favorite routes. I have forgotten how many times I did it.
I always seem to start into the tunnel feet first,turn around inside and come out head first. There's an upside down cam placement off the belay inside the squeeze right off the ledge but it's dark in there so look for the pocket.

[busty]

I think there are some slings on the tree ynot mentioned, but I'm not sure of their condition.