Bedtime Anchor

Post by **captain static** » Thu Oct 10, 2002 8:21 pm

I say strip the anchor. After all this is trad climbing. If you have to rap instead of walk off, then use a tree. The remark about the trail was in a FS context if this were to be the prefered method of descent.

Post by **john e aragon** » Fri Oct 11, 2002 3:27 pm

what about a piece of steel cable on those anchors. the cable would be just as strong as chains but the difference in wieght should impact the rock less. if installed properly it would hard for anyone to remove it and still provide a safe rappell station. i think removeing these anchors is not the answer (i never rappell on them but am glad to have them when new climbers scream take at the crux).

Post by **captain static** » Fri Oct 11, 2002 5:46 pm

Good suggestion. Just playing devil's advocate on the strip the anchors viewpoint

. Now that I think of it you could place a plastic or rubber sheath (i.e. a piece of garden hose) around the cables or chains for that matter to protect against gouging?

Post by **Steve** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 12:59 am

Have you all heard about this stuff called nylon? They invented a few decades ago and it is used for all sorts of things including webbing. As if my opinion hasn't been expressed enough already..here I go again. I'm against any sort of metal anchor hanging over the lip

Post by **captain static** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:25 pm

I disagree with Steve for this reason. It is my observation with the use of webbing at an anchor point that as time goes on, it starts to accumulate into a multi-colored blob. What happens is that some people will just not trust someone elses sling for whatever reason and then hang their own. After a while, the anchor becomes an ugly mess of slings.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:32 pm

Seems like there's an easy solution to that, though Capt - just cut off the extra slings when you see that happening. If none of them look good, put up new ones, and add a rap ring. At least there is no permanent damage to the rock with nylon, and webbing is cheap.

Post by **captain static** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:35 pm

So now everybody who wants to do BTFB has to carry a rap ring? Whaah

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:41 pm

Capt, shame on you!

Rap rings are cheap, but you know you don't even need them. I carry a handful in my climbing pack. I do worry about idiots top roping through them, though..

Now you want to talk about messy anchors, what the hell is behind all those slings on Attack of the Sand Shark. That thing wigged me out big time when I got up to it and set up to rap! Why doesn't that route have a bolted anchor? Anyone know? I suppose this should be a new topic. Oh well..

Post by **captain static** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 5:47 pm

We'll just let Geez be the official BTFB anchor police/replacement committee since he love to do that route so much

.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 14, 2002 6:03 pm

Sounds like a plan, Capt. He may now have the expectation that we stuff money in his pants whenever he does something for us, though!