Choices suck

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Wes
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Choices suck

Post by Wes »

So, should I stick with my plan to go to the North face of Looking Glass this weekend, even though the forcast is not that great and the rock as already kinda wet? Or should I head to the red, where the forcast is much, much better? Of course, I am not really free climbing, since my elbows are still to messed up. So, aid climbing on cold, wet granite, in the shade, or aid climbing on warm, soft, crumbly sandstone in the sun?

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

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Post by Guest »

Sunshine, baby, sunshine.

It's been a looooooong Winter!
overhung
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Post by overhung »

Wes, what's wrong with the elbows? Mine finally healed after about two months.
rhino
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Post by rhino »

The Red loves you man
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Just look at your elbows and think of how they remind you of wrinkly scrotum skin and hit the free climbs.
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Wes
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Post by Wes »

I never really thought of it like that. Guess I will have to go free climbing this weekend after all.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Wes
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Post by Wes »

OK, looks like climbing in the sun is much more fun the climbing in the shade, and the weather looks OK at the glass for next weekend.

So, what are the nice aid routes in the red? And of more importance, which ones go clean? I know of several free routes that would be nice to aid, but I am really wanting to do some c2 hooks, cam hooks, and really small brass type stuff.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
batguano
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Post by batguano »

i bet armageddon would be pretty C2esque. no nailing on that guy for sure. same with the unknown aid route at FRC. those are gonna be some proud free lines.
heavy weather was originally done on clean aid and it looks pretty thin. probably pretty C2esque as well.
halloween looks cool also. lt looks like it takes good gear, but it's real steep. it'd be a danglefest.

clean is definately the ethic to strive for on sandstone. i don't think right on solid and far out has gone clean yet. it took a number of blades when i did it. i bet it would be at least C3 and probably harder if it went clean right now.
weather is occurring.
Steve
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Post by Steve »

Huh, huh, huh, huh....batguano said danglefest.

Don't forget Ole KY, just because a couple of wanks have done it free doesn't mean you can't aid it. Whatever you decide to get on Wes have fun.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
Yasmeen
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Post by Yasmeen »

So who all's heading to the Red this weekend? It sounds like it may be the first weekend in a long time that a decent number of people go.
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