RRC Archives

Did you knock it out?


Seems like a minor transgression compared to say "throwing an ondra..."

Guy sure is an amazing photographer....

JMO...3 random draws on random bolts on an "easier" route, without anchor draws, (which is how I read it, correct me if I'm wrong...) will usually be "cleaned up" in the very near future at many areas.... There are no hard and fast rules, but if you are going to leave anything on...

You don't need any cleaning draws either, just take the damn swing it's perfectly safe if you know what you are doing... . I guess that's part of the issue...big "if" I recently heard about someone that smashed their belayer into the boulder (on Ro) because they forgot to unclip the belay...

there are only two possible solutions to climbing mishaps: 1) good mentorship; people showing people how not to suck rather than simply saying "sucking is wrong". 2) make climbing safer. the obvious problem with 'de-risking' climbing is it increases the amount of pressure placed on gear (...

More Trendy Crap. Does it really substitute actually looking at your climber? You need to try them before you judge. I think they are awesome. Most people that use them feel that they give a better belay as they are able to watch their partner much more consistently. Just takes some getting use to....

The fifi hook on the first bolt trick is great for that type of situation, althoughi admit a couple weeks ago my friend bouldered up to clean the first draw, another fine option if you've strong friends....

Nothing broke

I'm with the dude abides...a few of the bolts feel like 11+ clips even if the climbing is only 11a....mebbe I just wasn't reading the route right, quite possible...

why don't climbers throw their trash in the floor of their car like normal people? My partner did on our last trip, it was a fascinating "archeology dig" of our poor nutrition habits. Thanks for picking it up, random dood. We remarked on the mess when we arrived but didn't do anything abo...

Pigsteak is starting to sound like a broken record BUT his idea is on the right track. The only way to deal with the crowds and the lack of their contribution is to limit their numbers to a manageable amount. Set up a system like Dr Bob has at Torrent. Do it on a trial bases and see what happens. P...