Search found 51 matches

by rmcfall
Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:34 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: Glue-in bolt testing
Replies: 20
Views: 9872

Re: Glue-in bolt testing

Nice work. Thanks Rick!
by rmcfall
Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:38 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!
Replies: 105
Views: 279797

Re: Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!

re Darkside...I think cleaning draws at the crag are sufficient. The place already sees bigger crowds than it can handle, and similar to the current fixed aluminum, steel permadraws on every bolt will only encourage more due to the convenience. Cleaning draws on each route would make stripping one's...
by rmcfall
Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:16 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!
Replies: 105
Views: 279797

Re: Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!

Artsy,
I've actually got 20 steel permadraws I planned to hang as cleaning draws at the Darkside. John Garcia of Austin arranged for these to be donated courtesy of ClimbTech.
Rob
by rmcfall
Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:37 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 11481

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

I believe a whip on the click-up with brake unattended would be fine. In fact, the larger the fall the better I believe the click-up works. It's the other scenarios I mentioned (clipping the anchor and sitting back before saying "take," toproping, short lead falls, etc) that would be probl...
by rmcfall
Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:48 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 11481

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

Personally, I've enjoyed using the Sum. My only complaint is that lowering can be difficult with it sometimes.

What about the recent accident?
We're inherent problems discovered?
by rmcfall
Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:42 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 11481

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

That's liability management.

To your point though--agreed, devices shouldn't be treated as auto-lockers. My point is though that the Click-Up does not function the same as a Gri-Gri or other device that has an auto-locking capability when used properly.
by rmcfall
Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:26 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device
Replies: 27
Views: 11481

Re: Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

I know this thread is about the Alpine-Up, but since the Click-Up is also mentioned and there are similarities between the two, I thought I'd share my recent experience with the device. I was under the impression that the Click-Up was an auto-locker and possibly a good alternative to the Gri-Gri, bu...
by rmcfall
Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:05 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 238159

Re: PDs at Lode

In my opinion, fixed draws are purely a luxury. I admit that I have enjoyed climbing on fixed draws these days, but it’s purely for selfish reasons. When it comes down to it, it’s easier. To me, this is a lousy reason to have fixe draws. Are they NECESSARY for “safe” climbing? No. I happened to cros...
by rmcfall
Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:24 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Accident at Darkside sat.
Replies: 105
Views: 65049

This is such terrible news, bringing about such a sense of helplessness that can occur in just a moments time. Please be careful out there.

My thoughts go out to his friends and family.
by rmcfall
Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:20 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Body Found
Replies: 62
Views: 30268

The "Wet" effect is new to us, as is killing for weed is to you, I new they laced it with pcp or angle dust when I was younger to be able to sell mexican press weed or home grown, but the embalming thing is still sorta new, at'least to me anyway. PCP and Angel Dust are the same thing. Emb...