Search found 16 matches

by clausti
Tue May 01, 2012 10:04 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence
Replies: 53
Views: 17607

Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Orange Juice is a really good route on beautiful rock. It goes at .12c, and what most people call the crux is crimping on small holds and highstepping on a gently overhanging face. maybe 15 degrees, tops. rr slab.
by clausti
Thu Mar 22, 2012 2:10 am
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Homo Climbtastic convention July 26-29, 2012 New River Gorge
Replies: 24
Views: 13033

Re: Homo Climbtastic convention July 26-29, 2012 New River G

Why hello there Red River Gorge people! Is the Red not gay enough for you? Do you yearn for a crag where you can climb with people who aren't the same gender they were born into? Do you know what the term "breeder" means? Well, do I have an event for you! http://homoclimbtastic.files.word...
by clausti
Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:18 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 148346

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

I live in Columbus, Ohio and... People from Ohio are the real reason the Red is so overcrowded with gymballs.. I know this is a running joke around here, but most people from Cleveland go to the New, because of drive time and interstate architecture (77 goes straight from Cleveland to the new, basi...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 4:20 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 238099

Re: PDs at Lode

Meadows and Artsay, Obviously the perma draws were not removed from the cave because it is okay for 12/13 climbers to hang dog their way up 13's and 14's while it is not okay for 11 climbers to hang dog their way up 12's. :D Yeah, I want to say that too... but I think steepness dictated their choic...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:02 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 148346

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Actually, there's one more note I'd like to make. One way the "community" can communicate it's values to new climbers? You can open your fucking mouth and say something at the crag. So on my very first trip to the Red, when you could still camp up near Oil Crack Crag, me and a whole group ...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 11:49 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 148346

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Wanna see less people at your favorite rr crag? TL;DNR: Make things more of a pain in the ass. Long version: - Charge more for camping. Not because it will discourage dirtbags, who are actually a community resource for transmitting the culture of what is appropriate, because of their continuity, but...
by clausti
Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:57 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Speak Up!
Replies: 125
Views: 43595

Re: Speak Up!

Well... big shout out to Paul Nelson as well (camhead on here) for a redpoint of Welcome to Ol' Kentuck this past Sunday. His first 5.13 trad line. Having been conscripted into hiking up to Pebble Beach a handful of times myself to belay my partner on the prodge, I had worked on the .11cR seam/face ...
by clausti
Tue May 24, 2011 2:46 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Important Info! Next weekend at Muir Valley
Replies: 18
Views: 134610

Re: Important Info! Next weekend at Muir Valley

Oh, and Hey- here is the link to donate to Friends of Muir Valley.

Just read the thread about the stats for last weekend, and realized we hadn't sent and money for a while. Time to send some. So in case anyone else wants a handy-dandy link...

http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.org/index.php?page=6
by clausti
Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:03 am
Forum: Sport
Topic: blue tick marks
Replies: 139
Views: 81037

Re: blue tick marks

So, we were climbing at Bibliotech on Saturday. One of our crew asked about beta on a route to me, and I jokingly yelled up, "do you want me to put some blue tickmarks up there for you?" A kid next to us heard this, and said "I have some blue chalk!" He must have seen the confus...
by clausti
Tue Apr 20, 2010 4:36 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Accident at Darkside sat.
Replies: 105
Views: 65010

I haven't spoken in this thread yet, so I'll preface these remarks with my best wishes and strongest hopes for Mike's recovery. He sounds like an amazing guy, and a fighter. Excellent advice. I still have a concern about the proficiency of local dispatchers. A few nights ago, a caller reported to 91...