RRC Archives

Pair of Five-Ten Guide Tennies, size US 7.5. Just a bit too tight for me - worn only twice and still look new. Bought for $90 - will sell for $45. PM me if interested.

Which Petzel ascenders?

Very true - there are many other options that are terrain dependent. OP sounded like they're taking a nervous first-time rappeller out, so I'd assume you'd go someplace with a nice comfy ledge and the ability to rig the anchor up high to make the start of the rap easier, etc, etc., in which case tha...

Ditto on the releasable munter-mule setup - it's the method taught by AMGA because it's quick, easy and allows you to very easily deal with many of the problem situations by being able to release the rappel line and take over with a lower from the belay line. The method Wes describes is close, but i...

Okay, just one last comment on the whole gri-gri thing. I think you'll find that the amount of friction generated by an "un-cammed" gri-gri is quite a bit less than the amount of friction generated by an ATC just due to the angles involved and the way the rope threads through the gri-gri m...

Ditto Wes' comments on Table Rock. If you're looking for easy & pleasant climbing, do Jim Dandy or Cave Route to the Lunch Ledge then finish up on My Route (5.6) - some nice exposure on My Route. There is one natural belay on My Route, so take a small rack up with you. Gets you a total of 6 pitc...

Want runout? Come down to NC and climb Stone Mountain with us. 30 ft between bolts is norm......for you traddies, envision a 150ft pitch with exactly ONE spot to place a small nut or C-3. Gotta luv it down here! And yeah, hexes actually do work pretty well at Seneca. Of course that's about the only ...

Had this happen 1400 feet up in Red Rocks a few weeks ago. Pulling the rope after the first of 12 consecutive rappels and it got stuck solid in a crack. No amount of flipping, see-sawing, grunting or cursing would move it. Put a prussic around the rope and attach to belay loop (or you can use a gri-...

I love my Mythos! Leather uppers that conform to the shape of your foot after they get broken in. Not the most technical shoe around, but great for all-day trad routes.

Advice that's useful only if your foot happens to be the same shape as mine.....

If you go over to Father and Son, be sure to do Eureka. Long 5.6, bolted but a little bit of crack climbing also.