RRC Archives

Haha....that story deserves a post in itself. Next time I'm yapping while you're racking.....completely ignore me.

You'll learn like Ray and I did to weed out each others ridiculous advice.

12a Too Many Puppies, Swedish Fish (Bare Metal is too much like Chainsaw to make my list.)
12b Buff The Wood, Mercy The Huff
12c Hellraiser, Jesus Wept
12d 8Ball

Jo... I might be interested for Annalissa. We'll try one on in town and let you know, if you don't unload it first!

I always wonder when a climb feels hard for me at a given grade, is it a sandbag or is it just pointing out more deficits in my technique. Yep. I can't recall very many sandbags at the Red, of any grade or type. Actually, I'm not sure I can recall any. Maybe "The Specimen", but only barel...

Go to the Indian Creek forum and ask this question. That'll really fuck up your logic. Exactly. It's all about what you spend your time doing. A crack climber friend of mine from Colorado came out a few years ago, sent Welcome To Ole Kentuck in a few tries, and then spent the rest of his trip tryin...

I hate falling. It's still scary... every time. That said, I've taken 40 footers on gear and 70 footers on bolts. The best way I know to combat it is to make the decision when you leave the ground, or when you begin climbing, to not fall....either onsight or redpoint. Once I've decided this, then fa...

dustonian wrote: Although there are a very few outliers (Jim Beyer?), if someone places a pin nowadays,

I used Jim's name in a song and always wondered if any other climbers knew who the hell I was talking about.

ow- i don't understand why you think bridwell's approach is 'shortsighted,' by your own recollection (which i appreciate you sharing) he was thinking about the future and how to mitigate impact. maybe you are questioning his assumption that the route would be banged out? Shortsighted in that clean ...

Basically, it is the same thing. His reasoning however was that eventually the aid climbers would pound it out anyway, so why not pound it out just enough to let it go free and clean, and and cut off any reason for pins to be placed there again. Shortsighted, in my opinion.

But I have never heard of anyone nailing a cracks around here until the old pin placements turn into fingerlocks. Is it ever the same person that nails the crack then uses the ensuing flaired fingerlocks??? It is my impression that hammering routes is shortsighted. Bridwell pioneered the use of rep...